Streetwear Fabrics and GSM: What to Spec for Hoodies and Tees
When you build a streetwear line, fabric choice and GSM (grams per square meter) decide how a hoodie or tee feels, drapes, and holds up after washing. If you get those specs right early, sampling, costing and bulk production move faster, especially at low MOQ.
This guide covers the fabric and GSM ranges buyers usually ask for on private-label hoodies and tees, what to put in a tech pack or brief, and how a Faisalabad cut-and-sew partner like ZK International goes from sample to bulk at around 50 pcs per style.
What GSM Means for Streetwear
GSM is the weight of the fabric per square meter. A higher GSM generally means a heavier, denser feel. It isn't the only sign of quality, because yarn, knit structure, finishing and shrinkage control matter just as much. Still, it's the number brands and factories use to agree on "light," "standard" or "heavy" blanks.
For private label, lock the GSM (or a tight range) before bulk. A vague brief like "heavy hoodie" leads to extra sample rounds and cost surprises.
Typical GSM Ranges for Tees
These are common working ranges for the cotton and cotton-blend jersey used in streetwear and basics. The exact feel still depends on the yarn and finishing.
Light / summer tee: about 140–160 GSM
Standard everyday tee: about 160–180 GSM
Heavier / premium blank feel: about 180–220 GSM
Oversized cuts usually look better in the mid-to-heavy range, because lighter jersey can look thin on a loose silhouette. If you sell in the USA, UK, EU or Canada, keep in mind that what counts as a "heavyweight tee" varies by market. Put a number in the brief, not just a word.
Typical GSM Ranges for Hoodies and Fleece
Fleece and French terry are usually specified by GSM plus knit type, for example brushed fleece or French terry.
Light / mid hoodie: about 280–320 GSM
Standard streetwear hoodie: about 320–380 GSM
Heavier / winter-leaning: about 380–420+ GSM
Brushed fleece has a soft inside. French terry has loops on the inside, a cleaner outer face, and a different drape. Give both the GSM and the construction so the sample matches what you pictured.
Fabric Types Buyers Ask For Most
Cotton jersey (tees): It's soft, prints easily and comes in a wide range of GSMs. It's a good default for solid tees and graphic drops.
Cotton / poly blends: Blends can hold their shape better and shrink less. They're useful when you need durability or a sharper print surface. Confirm the blend percentage in the tech pack.
French terry: It has loops on the back and a smoother face. It's common for lighter hoodies, shorts and joggers.
Brushed fleece: It has a soft inside face and is the usual choice for classic hoodies and crewnecks.
Rib and trims: Specify the neck ribs, cuffs and waistbands (composition and stretch) so they still match the body fabric after washing.
If you need organic or certified materials, ask early. Availability, lead time and cost differ from conventional cotton, so we'll talk through the options with you rather than assume a certification is already in place.
What to Send Before Sampling
You don't need a perfect tech pack to start a conversation, but a clearer brief means fewer sample rounds.
Garment type (tee, hoodie, crew, etc.) and target silhouette
Fabric type and target GSM (or a range)
Composition (e.g. 100% cotton, 80/20)
Color or Pantone reference, or an approved lab dip process
Artwork and print method if you know it (DTG, screen print or embroidery, since the method affects fabric choice)
Target markets (USA / UK / EU / Canada) and any label or packaging notes
Order plan: a sample first, then bulk at around 50 pcs per style (MOQ can be discussed per program)
ZK International is a custom apparel manufacturer in Faisalabad focused on private label and cut-and-sew for small and growing brands. For many styles the typical starting point is about 50 pcs per style, with sampling before bulk.
From Fabric Spec to Bulk
Brief or tech pack: fabric, GSM, measurements and trims
Sample: check the fit and feel, and adjust the GSM or construction if needed
Approval: a size set or sealed sample where required
Bulk: cut-and-sew at the agreed MOQ, with QC before packing
Shipping: EXW, FOB or other terms as agreed for your market
Settle the fabric before you add more colors. Changing the GSM after you approve a sample usually means making a new sample.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Asking for "heavy" without a GSM number
Mixing fleece and French terry terms in the same brief
Ignoring wash and shrink expectations for oversized fits
Approving a light sample, then expecting a heavier feel in bulk
Leaving out the print method when the fabric has to take ink or embroidery well
Planning a Drop?
Planning a hoodie or tee drop and want fabric and GSM advice before you sample? Email info@zkinternational.com or message us on WhatsApp with your target GSM, silhouette and quantity. We typically reply within 24 hours.
ZK International makes private label and low-MOQ cut-and-sew apparel in Faisalabad for buyers in the USA, UK, EU and Canada.
Related: How Low MOQ Private Label Works with a Pakistan Manufacturer
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